MAY 05 2014 BY BRYAN 

From thoughts written on paper napkins…

Emporio La Rosa: Helado, dos selecciones para mi, Frambuesa-Menta y Fruta-Pimiento (two scoops of ice cream: Raspberry-Mint and Fruit-Cherry Pepper).

So far, everyone here in Santiago speaks to me in Spanish (go figure, right?), not like those South Floridian Cubans who pick me off as a gringo in seconds and only speak to me in English. Here they seem to actually not know that I am a gringo; they pass me off as European (Portuguese). I must say that I am gaining much pleasure from this mistake. I actually need a Spanish/English dictionary, but I resist, as that would ruin my Portuguese airs!

Outdoor Cafe in Santiago, Chile

Lucia Bistro: Asado con Ensalada Chileana (grilled beef on a potato fritter) and a Tomato-Onion-Hot Pepper salad… the salad could almost have been a chunky gazpacho!), served with a side of fresh multigrain bread sliced into “sticks” and vino tinto (of course). I look out the window and see one of the local Priests (“our” church is only steps away), walking swiftly by while checking his watch.  He seems as all the world like a character out of a Beatles song.  In spite of his hurry, I suspect that he is not yet late for eternity.

Tambo Café: Café con Leche and Cherimoya something… sort of a dessert mousse. That “breakfast” made me feel a little decadent in a “let them eat cake” sort of way, but if they want to eat cake I think that they should eat cake! (Just ask Bill Cosby). 10:15 AM or so and the music cart man comes by and stops just outside a nearby tienda (store). He literally cranks out his music from box for a group of young children. A few songs and he (happily and contentedly) moves on.

The city of Santiago, Chile: I have read that it is a bit dirty and air polluted. This is not my observation. As to the air, it has been clear with blue skies. The streets are mostly clean. There are a fair amount street sweeps and cleaners. I even saw a fountain cleaner hard at work in one of the parks.

Fountain in Santiago, Chile

Park in Santiago, Chile

Oh, the dogs! Now let me tell you (or remind some of you) that nearly two years ago I determined that Bolivia was “dog heaven”.  There were so many stray dogs. While all were thin, most seemed very healthy. Santiago appears to have dogs that are more independent than normal strays.  There are fewer than I experienced in Bolivia, and most seem well-groomed. They are robust. Some are altogether fat!  The only unhealthy dog that I have yet seen happened to be dead, which I am guessing explains his unhealthy countenance.

Lunch…I am sorry, I’ll have to double-check the name of this café later. White cheese vegetable lasagna topped with flakes of pecorino cheese and shredded spinach. The salad was a colorful peas & corn, shredded carrots and iceberg lettuce. My drink was mineral water without gas. Inside the café: worn hardwood floors, high ceilings and white washed plaster walls adorned with the paintings by down syndrome adolescents.

I have decided, for the time being, to view this journey as my version of the Paris 1920s scene with the American expatriate community known as the “lost generation”.  Of course I have not yet met my artistic/poetic/writer counterparts. This might be a good thing as in my case they would have to be retired cops and/or “spooks”.  We might drink a lot, but the whole artistic angle would be lost in exaggerated stories (fishermen have nothing on retired cops when it comes to tall tales).